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Precision Clipper Cutting #2
 The "Tapered Haircut" is probably the most popular haircut in the western world, and has been so for many, many years. When Bob Ohnstad's father began his barbering career in the 1920's the haircut had already been popular for decades.
Now YOU can learn to give Tapered Haircuts like the experts!
You'll learn, with practice, that a good tapered haircut can take around 15 minutes to give. Bob tells you that the most important minute is the first minute that your client is in your chair. You'll learn how to use that minute to make your client happy with your service. During that minute, if you learn Bob's lessons, you will learn:
- The right questions, and the required listening skills for pre-cut communications
- Proper hair observation and analysis skills. You'll hear about different types of hair and hair texture, problem hair and how to detect it
- The ability to balance client wants with reality...the art of compromise
You can see and hear Bob and a dozen different clients as he goes through this pre-cut procedure with each of them. A priceless opportunity to learn good communication and hair analysis techniques as Bob asks the key questions every barber should know the answers to before they even turn on their clippers.
Bob has a table showing you his recommended lengths for short,wavy and curly hair, cross-referenced with fine, medium and coarse hair. The table shows a RANGE of recommended lengths, and Bob’s preferred length also shown. Some common hair problems, and how to deal with them are presented next. You'll learn about
- Double cowlicks
- Front Hairline cowlick
- Ducktail neckline
- How to check for hair grain problems
- Working with the folks whose hair grows straight up and out all over their head...about 10% of your clients will fall into this group
The Two ways to part the hair:
- Casual, or 'natural' - letting the hair flop & part where it wants
- Formal - placing the part on the left side of the head and forcing the hair to go to the right. Bob disagrees with the "Formal" or "Traditonal" parting method, and then shows you a well-drawn diagram showing where to part hair depending on the 'grain' of the hair and cowlick location. You'll learn how to part hair for men who wear a 'comb-over' as they try to hide baldness.
You'll have a chance to review hair growth patterns, a listing of 8 main Oster blades, their blade numbers, and the length that each blade leaves the hair. Also, finishing clippers, adjustable-blade clippers, attachments for adjustable-blade clippers are discussed.
When giving a tapered haircut, you'll need additional cutting skills if you want to deliver Precision Tapered Haircuts. Skills that are IN ADDITION to those show on "Precision Clipper Cutrting #1". Bob will teach you about
-Scissor cutting the top and upper sides/back
-"Stepping Out” clipper-over-comb cutting
-Transitioning from "Direct Contact" to "Clipper-Over-Comb" cutting
If you have trouble handling your scissors and comb with confidence, the next section dealing with precision tool handling has some very good, close-up views of Bob’s hands as he uses the scissors and comb - a GREAT technique demonstration.
Do you know why tapered scissor cutting on the back of the head is different than scissor cutting on the sides? It’s an easy answer that you’ll see with 2 of Bob’s well-drawn diagrams. Then he goes ‘live' to show tapered scissor cutting across the back and sides of his client’s head
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How do you keep your lengths even and correct across the haircut? Bob will show you a very special comb that can help you with your length measurements…a fantastic tool for keeping correct lengths until you get to the point that you can intuitively keep the right lengths as you cut.
- The “Stepping-Out” cutting method is a technique you'l learn to use next. This is a good way to cut off a lot of excess, bulky hair and get quickly to a good clean taper. Bob uses diagrams, verbal explanations and live examples to teach you.
- Transition cutting is cutting from the shorter cut on the lower sides & back to the longer parts of the UPPER sides and back. Or an other way to say it, transition from ‘direct contact’ cutting to ‘over-the-comb’ cutting. You will learn which comb and which blade to use for the different lengths you want on the different parts of the hair.
Another of Bob's great teaching tools comes next...a table listing 5 blades, 5 blades with flattop comb, 5 blades with the Wahl comb. After working through that table with you you'll move into demonstrations using the blades and combs discussed as Bob walks you through the table.
The actual haircuts now begin, with the first man getting a Clipper-All-Around or “High-and-Tight” cut. The WHOLE HAIRCUT is captured for you, including trimming the ears and eyebrows, followed by another short tapered cut. Bob tells you the blade numbers as he uses them and changes them...valuable information as you learn these cuts.
You can watch Bob move through 2 medium taper cuts. Then he takes a time-out to help you avoid a problem he had for a long time..maybe you have it now: Does the hair above your client's ear wind up being cut shorter than the rest of the side, regardless of which clipper you use? You can learn the simple explanation behind this problem, and how to stop it from happening.
After that tip, you'll get to watch and learn:
- a more full taper cut with a blocked neckline
- another medium tapered cut
- learn what type of hair and hair grain is needed for a comb-back on the sides of a medium-to-longer tapered haircut
- a wavy-hair cut for comb-back on the sides
- a straight, fine-textured comb-back cut with longer sides and back and blocked neckline
- how to use clipper-over-comb to cut the hair over the ears.
After Bob has finished with the men he goes through several ladies' tapered haircuts. You'll see how he uses his scissors and clippers on a number of ladies, finishing with his wife and her full head of thick, dark hair.
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