Haircutting Products and Hair Cutting Techniques
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Featured Article
Scissors-Over-Comb
Technique
The scissors-over-comb
technique, often used by barbers, is essential
for many different cuts for men and women. This particular
technique allows you to cut close to the head and follow the hairline.
If you do it right, you end up with a softer look, but not a
freshly shaved look like you get with clippers.
You
will need to start with a head of freshly washed, damp hair.
Cut the top ½ of the haircut, removing
the bulk. After that is completed, you can move onto the lower ½ of
the haircut. Here are some guidelines to help you:
- Starting at the hairline, lift a section of hair with your comb
in your holding hand (left hand).
- Cut
off the hair that sticks past the comb with your scissors
(in your cutting hand).
The lower blade (the stationary blade) must be parallel to
your comb.
- Keep
the blade of your scissors
moving as you cut a section (one comb's worth) of hair.
If you stop "mid cut", you can get little nick marks.
- Open
and close the blades all the way so that most of the
cutting is done with the center part of the blades rather than the
tips. Cutting with the tips can result in choppy, uneven cuts.
- Try to do all the cutting work with your
thumb (upper) blade
rather than your lower (finger) blade. Your lower blade
should stay as still as possible - that's why it's called the
stationary blade.
- Cut the hair close to your comb
but don't actually touch it (unless the style is very short).
You could end up cutting into your comb and damaging your
scissors.
- After you've cut the first section,
lift some of the cut hair along with the next section you want to cut
to act as your guide.
Don't cut any of the hairs from your previous cut - they are
just there to guide you.
- You must keep your comb at a consistent distance and angle
from the scalp to get a smooth cut. This is especially
difficult in curved or rounded areas such as the nape of the neck.
- Work your way around the bottom
½ of the haircut, lifting either vertical or diagonal
sections. Avoid horizontal.
- Stand
to one side as you do this technique, not directly in
front of what you are cutting. This allows you to more easily
see the angle of the comb and the amount of hair you are cutting.
- It helps to have long scissor blades
for this technique. Shorter scissors can result in more
unevenness as well as horizontal "steps" because your hand will be in
the way.
This
technique takes a lot of practice, but once you get it right,
you'll be able to blend and cut very short hairstyles with a clean,
even look.